JOS, once celebrated as the home of the finest suya, roasted chicken and peppered fish, is now facing a dangerous brain drain in its culinary sector. For decades, the Plateau State capital was famed for its tasty suya, balango, roasted chicken and, later, its pioneering fish dishes.
But today, the city is grappling with a migration wave that has seen its best roasters and caterers move to Abuja, Nasarawa and Port Harcourt in search of greener pastures.
Growing up in Jos, the belief was that the state was blessed with the best of everything, including food and services at affordable prices. By the 1990s, Jos suya, particularly the popular Tsiren Mangu (Mangu suya), had gained a reputation far beyond Plateau.
The balango behind New Nigeria Bank and the roasted chicken at the famous Travellers Inn on Church Street were unrivalled. Visitors to Jos were often directed to these outlets, with Travellers Inn’s delicacy selling out quickly whenever there were major events in town.
Over time, roasted chicken sellers expanded their menu to include roasted fish, chips, plantain and eventually, grilled catfish and tilapia wrapped in foil. These innovations, which started in Jos, set a standard that attracted customers from across Nigeria.
Areas such as Hausa Road, West of Mines, Hill Station Junction and Press Centre became hotspots for night crawlers seeking fish pepper soup, suya and isiewu (peppered goat head). These dishes were not only affordable but also unmatched in taste.
Sadly, most of the women and men who once defined Jos’ culinary identity have relocated. A recent visit to Abacha Barracks Mami Market in Abuja revealed that many of the fish roasters there trace their roots to Jos. In Abuja and Nasarawa State, several caterers and chefs thriving in the industry are either from Jos or trained here. The story is the same among artisans, such as mechanics, masons, tilers and welders, who have moved to Abuja for better prospects.
Despite the migration, Jos-based mechanics and artisans still attract customers because of their honesty and affordability. Some contractors prefer bringing workers from Jos to handle jobs elsewhere. A resident, Candida Pam, lamented how a mechanic in Abuja cheated her by collecting money for a new battery but installed an old one instead. She noted that Jos mechanics remain more reliable, a testimony to the integrity that still exists among those who stayed behind.
Back in Jos, however, the culinary sector is struggling. Many current roasters of chicken, suya and fish lack the training and finesse of the old hands. The result is a decline in quality, with customers noting that today’s offerings are not as rich or well-prepared as before. The vacuum created by migration has allowed less experienced vendors to fill in, diluting Jos’ culinary reputation.
Observers argue that it is time for government and well-meaning individuals to intervene by training young people in suya preparation, chicken roasting, fish grilling and isiewu making. Such an initiative would not only preserve Jos’ culinary heritage but also create jobs for youths and reduce unemployment.
If Plateau is to maintain its status as the ‘Home of Peace and Tourism,1 reclaiming its lost culinary pride is very paramount.